Tuesday, August 11, 2015

Day Five - Learning to Share in the Old City


Our first full day in Jerusalem was packed from the moment we arrived at a special section of the Western Wall for 3 B'not Mitzvah (plural of Bat Mitzvah) at 8 am, until we left the Western Wall Tunnel and returned to our hotel at 6 PM. Needless to say, our tour guide, Muki, related what seemed like a text book's worth of information, but in reality didn't begin to scratch the surface about the ancient city.  Everywhere you drive, walk and stand to look around has biblical significance and current political consequences.
Here are some of the impressions or highlights from this remarkable day.  Upon entering one of the gates of the walled city, we were immediately struck by the vibrancy of "living" Judaism.  As we were making our way to the place where Cathy Baum, Susan Cherner and Joanne Green would partake in their Bat Mitzvah ceremony, we saw a wedding with the bride, groom, and friends/family dancing under the Chuppah - such happiness and joy on a Monday morning!!!  

We soon came to the part of the Kotel where the non-Orthodox communities in Israel (including Conservative/Masorti) constructed a platform for egalitarian prayer services and lifecycle celebrations. We saw at least 4 or 5 other events going on, concurrent with ours.  Most of these families had to "rent" a rabbi, but we were privileged to have our very own Rabbi Gerber lead the service. Cathy, Susan and Joanne were stellar and we had the opportunity to witness it as well as pray in Jerusalem facing the Western Wall!!!!!


We then made our way around this particular section to see the ruins and how people functioned during the time of the Second Temple. It's amazing to view how daily life must have carried on with their conducting business in the market place and the exchanging money for correct currency, since people came from far and wide to make sacrifices and pray at the Temple, to name just a few.  It is unfathomable to understand how the Temple was built given its size and that the slabs of stones used in the construction each weighed ton(s) and were 50 feet wide (give or take).
Later in the day we did go to the section of the Kotel that we all know from pictures. Although this was my third time, the emotion I felt was just as intense. I managed to squeeze my messages in a few places and say a prayer.

As we meandered through the Old City, we walked on rooftops which truly gave a perspective about how the various factions live alongside each other.  It was interesting to see Israeli flags flying on top of houses in the Muslim section.  Muki explained how the purchases of the houses occur secretly for an incredible price.  The resulting political implications for these transactions are not known; however, the Jews who now live in these homes need constant protection.

Of course, there is nothing like taking a break from these academic lessons to have lunch and go shopping in the Cardo, which was the main avenue in Jerusalem in the 6th century. I think all of us did very well and supported the Israeli economy. I definitely know I did.

The day continued with a tour of the Holy Sepulchre where Jesus was crucified and buried. I think we all have a better understanding of the term "shared space" where different denominations may inhabit the space, but do not necessarily work together to maintain anything out of the specific area deemed theirs. We ended with a tour of the Western Wall Tunnels, which were discovered after the 1967 War, and continue to be excavated and expanded to this day!

What would a bus ride back to the hotel be without a photo of a camel and a soldier on a street corner!!  It's all part of the Israeli experience. 

2 comments:

  1. Hooray - finally got my Day Five fix. The details, the emotions, your words really capture your experiences and it's so appreciated here. Hugs to all

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  2. Mazal tov to Joanne, Susan, and Cathy! What an amazing way to have a Bat Mitzvah. The pictures and travelog have been wonderful. Thank you all for sharing your trip with us.

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